Senaru: the village, the waterfalls, and the walks

The two well-known waterfalls are the main draw after the mountain itself. The first is reached by an established path and steps, and the entrance fee is posted at the ticket booth at the top.

You do not need a guide for the first waterfall. You should have an experienced one for the second, and for the third you need real climbing skill and equipment.

Be ready for touts. People waiting near the steps may present themselves as guides and press you, your driver, or your own guide for a fee, sometimes insistently. This is not officially sanctioned. Agree any price up front, and if a dispute turns serious, say you will leave and go elsewhere — that usually ends it.

Morning waterway walk: about an hour and a half through the fields, past houses and along the irrigation channels, timed so the sun comes up out of the sea with north Lombok spread out below.

Evening walk: an hour and a half down village trails to the Tumpasan Senaru, the “secret waterfall” locals swim in, returning for sunset over Mount Agung on Bali.

Panorama walk: an easy half day through rice terraces and waterways, which is the right amount of walking for the day before a trek or the day after one.